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The Brooklyn exhibition, however, opens with a fascinating look at Christian Dior’s relationship with America, and the Billiard Skull With Us Flag Shirt in other words I will buy this installation incorporates pictures and objects from the museum’s own collection, artfully selected by Yokobsky, that suggest Dior’s inspirations or juxtapose his work and that of the designers who succeeded him at his house with contemporary creative forces. After Dior’s untimely death, his brilliant dauphin, the 21-year-old Yves Saint Laurent, was appointed to helm the house, which he did for two years before being drafted into the army for his compulsory military service, where he promptly suffered a mental breakdown. Examples of Saint Laurent’s high-spirited, youthful takes on the master’s work are staged at the Brooklyn Museum against some footage of Marlon Brando in The Wild One— inspiration for Saint Laurent’s radical Beatnik collection of fall 1960 that horrified the Dior establishment and hastened his deferred call-up. Saint Laurent was succeeded by Marc Bohan, whose elegantly patrician designs were calculated not to frighten the horses and who survived as the house’s artistic director for nearly 30 years until 1989, when Gianfranco Ferré brought his own brand of Baroque Italianate bravura to Dior. Müller’s careful selection of Bohan’s work reveals the imagination behind the quiet pragmatism of this under-appreciated designer. “He was,” she explains, “very in tune with the Pop culture of his time.”

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Ferré, of course, ceded to John Galliano, who reimagined the Billiard Skull With Us Flag Shirt in other words I will buy this house for the 21st century with his spectacular runway shows and dynamic ad campaigns. Raf Simons, although short-lived at the house, left an emphatic legacy, and Maria Grazia Chiuri has married poetry to commerce and found the house’s feminist voice.In the bleak Parisian February of 1947, in a city still wounded from the Occupation, the shy 42-year-old designer Christian Dior launched his debut collection in a handsome Belle Epoque mansion on the Avenue Montaigne, with backing from the textile magnate Marcel Boussac. Fiercely superstitious, Dior had found a metal star on the sidewalk and felt that it was a positive omen. In fact, the collection, named Corolle, and swiftly dubbed the “New Look” by Harper’s Bazaar’s Carmel Snow, was far more of a dazzling success fou than he could ever have imagined. The Dior name was soon synonymous with Parisian glamour and allure and reaffirmed the supremacy of French fashion.

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